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Tomorrow ? Epiphany ? is the official start of king cake season (though plenty of grocery stores have already started stocking the treats), and people can begin arguing anew over filled vs. not filled, cream cheese vs. dry, and which local bakery makes the best version. But one thing on which we all can agree (I hope) is that a king cake needs a baby, a bean, a charm, or some other surprise tucked in its layers.

This morning's Wall Street Journal introduces us to Maison Kayser, kings of the king cake killjoys:

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