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When Masako "Peggy" Kamata first opened her hibachi and sushi restaurant Shogun (2325 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504-833-7477; www.shogunneworleans.com) in 1981, she dreamed of having a section dedicated to robata, a style of Japanese cooking where skewered snacks are cooked over a charcoal grill.

But she felt the timing wasn?t right, and so, the Metairie spot ? the oldest Japanese restaurant in the city ? built a solid reputation for it?s griddle-top hibachi and, later, sushi finesse.?